Asparagus

Victoria Hicks

Seasonal Fare with Flare
by Victoria Hicks

Locally grown asparagus usually is available in our area through June. The first asparagus stalks of the season are a joy to eat, and its fresh, pungent flavor never seems to pall. A member of the lily family, asparagus may be green or purple. Growing the plants in the absence of sunlight results in white asparagus.

Asparagus spears can be thick or thin. Some people prefer one kind over another, but size is not necessarily an indicator of quality. Thicker spears may have tougher, woodier ends but these are broken off before cooking anyway. Fat spears are just as tender as thin spears.

When purchasing or picking asparagus, look for crisp green stalks with tight buds. Once asparagus begins to blossom, it loses its flavor. Choose stalks with the least amount of tough white ends and of even size so they will cook uniformly. Since asparagus deteriorates rapidly, it’s important to select bundles that are refrigerated or on ice. For the same reason, asparagus should be used within two or three days of purchase. To store in the fridge, place the spears upright in a bowl or small vase of cold water or wrap the cut ends of the spears in a damp paper towel or plastic bag.

Opinions differ on whether to peel or not. If your asparagus is perfectly fresh from the garden, you need only break off the white end wherever it breaks easily. For store-bought, peel the stalks with a sharp knife or potato peeler, then wash thoroughly in water. If the asparagus must be peeled, the fat ones are easier to handle and less wasteful. Plan on 6-10 fat asparagus spears per person, depending on your menu.

Asparagus may be boiled, steamed, grilled, or roasted. A simple method is to place asparagus in a skillet. Pour in enough cold water to cover, and add salt. Bring to a boil quickly, and then simmer. Asparagus is done when a knife pierces the butt end easily. The spears should bend a little, but not be limp and droopy. The advantage to this method is that you can test the asparagus easily and remove stalks that are done before the others.

When your asparagus is fresh and properly cooked, it needs nothing but freshly ground pepper and salt. You also can serve it with melted butter, lemon butter, or a sauce such as Hollandaise, cheese sauce, or mousseline sauce (considered to be the most elegant with asparagus; this is Hollandaise with an equal quantity of whipped cream). The French and Italians like to serve hot asparagus with a vinaigrette sauce. Cold asparagus may be served with cold vinaigrette sauce and chopped parsley, with a mustard mayonnaise, or with sour cream flavored with dill, chives, and parsley.

Asparagus is a rich source of folic acid, which helps prevent the accumulation of homocysteine, a risk factor for heart disease.

Minute Asparagus
Serves 4-6

2 pounds asparagus
Salt
½ stick butter
3 Tbs. soy sauce
1 Tbs. lemon juice
Freshly ground pepper

Wash the asparagus and cut into very thin diagonal slices, about ¼-inch thick. Place in a colander or cooking basket. Pour enough water in a kettle to accommodate the colander or cooking basket, add salt, and bring to a boil. Heat the butter in a large skillet. When the water boils, drop in the basket, bring to a second boil, and cook for just one full minute. Remove, drain, and toss the asparagus into the skillet with the butter. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well over medium heat till the butter has browned and the asparagus is crisp and deliciously flavored.

—Adapted from James Beard’s American Cookery

Tangy Roasted Asparagus
A dash of Worcestershire sauce is all it takes to give zing to this side dish. Roasting is a great concept for almost all vegetables—it’s more flavorful than steaming and healthier than cooking with fat.
Serves 4

Vegetable oil spray
1 pound asparagus spears (about 20), trimmed and patted dry
1 Tbs. butter or light tub margarine
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
½ tsp. low-sodium Worcestershire sauce

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Place the asparagus in a single layer on the baking sheet. Lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Bake for 10 minutes, or until just tender and beginning to brown lightly on the tips.

In a small saucepan, combine the remaining ingredients. Cook over medium heat for 1 minute and stir. Drizzle over the asparagus, gently rolling the asparagus back and forth to coat.

—Adapted from American Heart Association Low-Salt Cookbook

Asparagus-Prosciutto Rolls
These easy and delicious rolls are a lovely first course.
Serves 2-3

¼ cup olive oil
1 Tbs. red wine vinegar
½ Tbs. Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 Tbs. minced fresh chives
Salt & freshly ground pepper to taste
3 thin slices prosciutto, cut in half crosswise
3 Tbs. cream cheese or goat cheese, divided
18 stalks asparagus, blanched
Italian parsley for garnish

Combine the olive oil, vinegar, mustard, and garlic in a bowl; whisk well. Stir in the chives and salt and pepper. Spread each piece of prosciutto with ½ tablespoon of cheese. Roll 3 stalks of asparagus in each half of prosciutto. Top with vinaigrette and parsley. Serve at room temperature.

Pasta with Asparagus, Chicken, and Gorgonzola
Serves 2-3

½ pound fresh asparagus
½ pound linguine
1 Tbs. butter
1 cup thin strips of chicken (about 1 small breast)
½ cup heavy cream
Red pepper flakes to taste
1½ Tbs. finely chopped shallots
Dash of nutmeg
2 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
1 Tbs. fresh tarragon, chopped
¼ cup Parmesan cheese, grated

Trim and clean the asparagus. Cut into 1½-inch lengths. Blanch in boiling water; set aside. Cook the linguine until al dente; drain and set aside. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Stir-fry the chicken until browned. Whisk in the cream, red pepper, shallots, and nutmeg. Add the Gorgonzola cheese; stir until melted. Add the tarragon, asparagus, and linguine. Toss well. Place on a warmed platter. Serve with the Parmesan cheese.

Grilled Asparagus
Fresh asparagus, like so many other vegetables, is delicious when grilled, and it’s so very easy to do! Asparagus spears may be grouped into bunches of 4 or 5 spears and skewered for easier handling on the grill.
Serves 3-4

1 pound asparagus
Extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp. minced garlic
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Wash asparagus and cut or snap off woody stems. If stalks are large, peel ends. Toss with olive oil and place on a very hot grill for 4 to 6 minutes, turning several times. Asparagus should be slightly blackened and wrinkled. Do not overcook.

Place on a serving platter. Sprinkle with olive oil and garlic and salt and pepper to taste. This dish can be served hot immediately or later at room temperature.

—Debora Smith

Classic Cold Asparagus Vinaigrette
Serves 4

2 lb. asparagus, trimmed, peeled
1 small shallot, minced
1 small clove garlic, crushed
½ tsp. Dijon mustard
Juice of ½ lemon
¾ cup vegetable or olive oil
2 tsp. red wine vinegar
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 hard-cooked egg, yolk and white minced separately
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

Blanch the asparagus and drain it on paper towels. Arrange the spears in a shallow serving dish and sprinkle with the minced shallot.

Place the garlic and salt in a small bowl, and mash them together with the back of a spoon until the mixture forms a paste. Stir in the mustard and lemon juice. Whisk in the oil, vinegar, and pepper. Spoon this dressing over the asparagus.

Garnish the asparagus with alternating bands of chopped egg white, parsley, and egg yolk. Chill thoroughly before serving.

—Adapted from Greene on Greens, by Bert Greene

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