
added 10/28/08
Seasonal Fare with Flare
by Victoria Hicks
Brussels sprouts are said to have been cultivated in 16th-century Belgium—hence their name. Resembling cute little cabbages, these cruciferous vegetables develop in rows along the stalk of the plant and achieve their best flavor after being exposed to a frost. They are high in vitamins A and C and are a fair source of iron. Brussels sprouts may be served raw if tiny, tender, and crisp, or sautéed, steamed, or roasted. They go well with beef dishes, lamb, fried or roasted chicken, duck, and roast pork. They should not be served with delicately sauced dishes.
When correctly cooked, Brussels sprouts possess a delicate nutty flavor. Cooked sprouts should be bright green, fresh-tasting, and have the slightest suggestion of crunch at the core. Avoid overcooking, as they will become yellowish, mushy, and develop a stale flavor.
One pound of sprouts will serve four persons. Choose firm, healthy, fresh, rounded heads all of the same size with bright green leaves. As with most vegetables, the smallest are the best. Avoid soft-headed sprouts which are over-mature and will cook into a pulp.
Store unwashed sprouts in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator up to three days. When preparing, wash well after trimming off the stems and any discolored leaves.
Brussels Sprouts Browned with Cheese
Serves 6
These cheese-coated Brussels sprouts are good with steaks and chops.
1 1/2 quarts Brussels sprouts
1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese mixed with 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 Tbs. melted butter
Salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 400°F. Blanch the Brussels sprouts in boiling salted water for 6-8 minutes, or until almost tender. Sprinkle 2 to 3 tablespoons of cheese in a casserole or baking dish to coat the bottom. Place the Brussels sprouts in the dish, spreading the rest of the cheese over each layer. Pour on the melted butter, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place, uncovered, in oven for 15-20 minutes, to brown the cheese nicely.
—Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child
A California Recipe for Brussels Sprouts
Serves 4
1 pound Brussels sprouts
6 Tbs. olive oil
2 small garlic cloves, chopped
2 Tbs. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
Boil or steam the sprouts in salted water till they are barely cooked through and are still very crisp. Drain, and dry over the heat for a moment. Sauté the garlic in the olive oil till just wilted. Add to the sprouts and shake the pan well. Add the lemon juice and pepper and shake again. Spoon into a heated serving dish and sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Serve.
Cook’s Note: For an interesting variation, add about 1 cup shredded boiled ham, baked ham, or prosciutto to this dish.
—Adapted from James Beard’s American Cookery
Sautéed Brussels Sprouts with Bread Crumbs
Serves 8
This is a nice autumnal side dish frequently used at Thanksgiving time.
2 lbs. Brussels sprouts, trimmed
4 Tbs. butter
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add Brussels sprouts and boil until just about cooked through, 3-5 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water to stop them from cooking any further. Cut Brussels sprouts in half length-wise and set aside.
Melt butter in a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until edges begin to brown, about 2 minutes; then remove and discard. Add Brussels sprouts to skillet, increase heat to high, and cook, stirring often, until sprouts are well-browned in places, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle bread crumbs over sprouts and stir well, then add lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
—Adapted from Saveur magazine
Buttered Brussels Sprouts
Serves 4
These are good with broiled or roast meats.
1 quart Brussels sprouts, trimmed
4 Tbs. butter
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon
Put sprouts in a 2-quart saucepan with enough boiling salted water to come one-third of the way up the pan, bring to a boil, and blanch, covered, for 5 minutes, until barely cooked through. Drain well.
Melt the butter in another pan, add the sprouts, and cook, covered, shaking the pan well, for 3 to 4 minutes. Season with the pepper and lemon juice.
Variations
Sauté 1/2 cup thinly sliced almonds in 2 Tbs. butter and add to the sprouts.
Combine sprouts with an equal quantity of whole, cooked, peeled chestnuts, or 1 can whole chestnuts, and a few pieces of crumbled crisp bacon. This goes well with turkey or goose for Thanksgiving or Christmas.
—Adapted from James Beard’s Theory and Practice of Good Cooking
Roasted Brussels Sprouts
Serves 6
The flavors caramelize under the high temperature of the oven and the outsides of the sprouts get crisp.
1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed
3 Tbs. olive oil
3/4 tsp. kosher or sea salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 400° F. Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Pour onto a sheet pan and roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. Shake the pan from time to time to brown the sprouts evenly. Sprinkle with more kosher salt and serve.
Brussels Sprouts with Bacon
Serves 8
The sprouts turn tender and sweet when stewed in stock complemented by rich, salty bacon.
1/2 pound sliced bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips
1/2 cup minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine, or water if desired
2 pounds Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed
5 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water
Set a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and sauté until it has rendered its fat and turned crisp, about 8 minutes. Drain excess fat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté gently until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
Add the wine, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil, stirring to scrape up any flavorful bits of bacon stuck to the bottom of the pan. When the wine has nearly evaporated, about 5 minutes, add the Brussels sprouts. Add the stock, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and let the stock simmer until the sprouts are easily pierced with a knife, 12 to 15 minutes. To serve, transfer the sprouts to a bowl and serve family style.
—Adapted from Inspired by Ingredients by Bill Telepan and Andrew Friedman
Brussels Pork Stew
Serves 6
This pork stew, cooked in beer and beef broth with rosemary and vegetables, is finished with a garnish of Brussels sprouts. A light red wine like a Beaujolais is delicious with this stew, as is a white wine like Pouilly-Fume or a Riesling. A salad of endive with julienne of beets is a lovely accompaniment.
3 pounds boneless pork shoulder or pork loin cut into 1½-inch cubes
1-2 Tbs. cooking oil
2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. ground rosemary
3 Tbs. flour
1 pint beer (or water, if desired)
1 1/2 cups beef broth
4 medium carrots, in 1/4-inch slices
4 medium potatoes, in 1/4-inch slices
4 medium onions, quartered
1 pound Brussels sprouts
Preheat oven to 325°F. Dry the pork pieces, as they won’t brown if they are damp. In a skillet, heat the oil and brown the pork, a few pieces at a time, adding more oil if needed. As they are done, remove the pieces to a heavy, lidded flameproof casserole.
Stir the seasonings into the casserole. Turn heat on very low under the casserole. Stir in the flour, a little at a time, until it disappears. Add the liquids, stirring to mix everything and to dislodge any bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. Bring to a simmer, cover, and place in the preheated oven. Turn down to 300° or whatever temperature will just maintain the simmer. Cook 45 minutes.
Tip pot and skim off fat. Add the vegetables, cover the casserole, and return to the oven for 30-45 minutes, or until pork and vegetables are tender. Check and correct seasoning.
Trim stems of sprouts and peel off any bad outer leaves, wash thoroughly, and make a small cut in the stem for more even cooking. Place in a saucepan with 1 cup boiling water and ¼ tsp. salt. Cover and cook 5-10 minutes or until sprouts are just tender. Add the sprouts to the stew. They are all the garnish you need.
Cook’s Note: For later serving, omit sprouts and refrigerate stew. To reheat, place in a preheated 325° oven for 30-45 minutes or until stew is just bubbling and warmed through. Prepare sprouts and add according to directions above.
—Adapted from Glorious Stew by Dorothy Ivens