The Co-op Food Stores of New Hampshire and Vermont

added 05/11/09

By Helen Brody

If ever I had doubts (which I never have) about the value of the farming community to the Co-op and to the health and economy of the Upper Valley, they were dispelled by the number of enthusiastic growers present—and the support they gave to the principles of the Co-op—at the annual produce growers’ meeting in March.

More than ten farmers attended the meeting led by Lebanon Store Manager (and former Produce Merchandiser) Bruce Follett. By his side was Produce Merchandiser Dot Benham, who answered questions when called upon while listening attentively; she will be fully in charge of the gathering next year.

The first growers’ meeting took place in 1997 when Tony White, as manager of the Hanover Produce Department, sought to set up a cohesive local produce purchasing system. Prior to that, Co-op purchases of produce from local farmers lacked organization, and the farmers were becoming frustrated because they could not plan for the upcoming season. Tony set up standards addressing the Co-op’s buying methods, produce quantity and quality, and a pricing structure that included lower store margins on locally grown produce to allow the farmer to take home more money for a crop. Farmers knew what they needed to grow for the Co-op, and they knew they had a guaranteed market for that crop. A back-up farm was also designated to ensure the Co-op’s supply should the primary grower have a crop failure or a low-yield year.

Produce is a whopping 15 percent of the Co-op stores’ sales, and as Tony said—in what may constitute an understatement—is a “very important element to the success of the Co-op.”

In her position as Produce Merchandiser, Dot is responsible for overseeing the produce selection year-round— its pricing, sales, merchandising, and inventory control—for all Co-op locations. A few days after the Growers’ Meeting, Dot gave me an hour of her time to discuss the growers’ meetings.

My first question was, “How does the Co-op decide who grows and sells what to them?”

“There are a lot of variables,” she admitted. “We have to balance the growers’ consistency and quality of product with their ability to keep up with the demand.

“The supplier farms do not change from year to year unless there are issues of their not meeting our expectations. But ultimately,” she emphasized, “it is the customers who drive the decision of which farmers we buy from. Quantity, quality, and consistency are what our customers demand.”

To meet those demands, the farms providing crops to the Co-op on a regular basis are usually the larger and/or more well-established ones in the area. That is not to say only the produce of the farmers at the meeting will make its way to the Co-op shelves and bins. “We are committed to putting out something special if there is an opening,” Dot noted, “but the stores cannot accommodate every single person who calls with an item to sell.”

Prior to the growers’ meeting, there is a one-on-one session with each farmer. Through mutual agreement this year, the quantities ordered and the pricing structure will, for the most part, remain the same as last year. Once prices are set, they do not change unless the product is put on sale.

Because of these early preliminary agreements with the farmers, the growers’ meeting itself consists mostly of operational questions and moves along with relative tranquility.

Fine-tuning the growing schedule is part of the meeting. MacLennan Farm in Windsor, Vermont, plants winter squash early in the spring and finishes picking early. Pierson Farm in Bradford, Vermont, jumped in to finish the season with a crop that will be planted later. Another fall hand-off—of kale this time—will occur between Gypsy Meadows Farm in Plainfield, New Hampshire and Killdeer Farm in Norwich, Vermont, beginning October first.

A different situation arose when a farm decided not to grow golden raspberries at all this year. Fortunately, Four Corners Farm in South Newbury, Vermont, picked up the baton. Such examples of the farms working together assures the Co-op stores of having the greatest selection of locally grown produce possible and for as long a season as possible.

The farmers work together in other ways, as well. Last year the Co-op and the farmers jointly funded replacement of the traditional, often soggy and collapsing, cardboard delivery boxes with sturdy plastic totes. The program was such a great success, Steve Fulton of Blue Ox Farm in Enfield, New Hampshire, was organizing his fellow farmers to buy additional totes for non-Co-op produce deliveries.

As for freshness, the produce staff in each store place produce orders every day for everyday delivery. And because very few farmers do not have a cell phone in their pocket, a grower may even take orders in the field while picking crops!

A meeting of local apple growers is scheduled for later in the season.

_Helen Brody can be reached at www.newhampshirefarms.net