The Co-op Food Stores of New Hampshire and Vermont

added 05/10/10

by Rosemary Fifield
Education and Member Services Director

The unmatchable flavor of a warm, ripe summer tomato fresh off the vine is the taste of the season for many of us. Whether homegrown or found at a local farmstand, a farmers market, or from the Co-op’s local growers, tomatoes in season are a world apart from those commercially produced at other times of the year.

Tomatoes come in innumerable varieties of shape, size, color, and flavor, and new hybrids are introduced every year. From the smallest cherry tomato to the huge beefsteaks, each has its own endearing characteristics. Plum tomatoes, also known as pear or paste tomatoes, make the best sauce as they contain the least amount of seeds and extra juice. Heirloom varieties, such as Brandywine, Arkansas Traveler, and Mortgage Lifter, may not be the most beautiful tomatoes on the market, but they remind us of how tomatoes are supposed to taste.

For the best flavor, keep whole tomatoes at room temperature, as long as they have not been cut or bruised. Temperatures below 50 degrees can cause what agronomists call “chilling injury,” primarily to texture, but also to flavor, if flavor and color have not been fully developed on the vine. Once cut, tomatoes should be refrigerated for food safety purposes.

As one might expect from such an intensely colored fruit
(and they are technically fruit), tomatoes are highly nutritious. They are an excellent source of vitamin A (as beta-carotene) and vitamin C, as well as a good source of important disease-fighting compounds known as phytochemicals. The phytochemicals in tomatoes— including fiber, lycopene, lutein, and flavonoids— may protect against prostate and other cancers, macular degeneration, and cataracts. A medium-sized tomato (½ cup chopped) contains only 35 calories.

Peeling and Seeding a Tomato:
Cut a shallow “x” in the base of the tomato, then immerse the tomato in boiling water for 10 to 30 seconds. Plunge the tomato into cold water, and when the tomato has cooled, peel the skin and cut out the stem. To seed the tomato, slice it in half and gently squeeze each half to force out the seeds, jelly, and juice.

Roasting Tomatoes:
Roasting tomatoes intensifies and concentrates their flavor. They can be roasted slowly, at 300º for 2 hours, or quickly, at 450º for 20 to 30 minutes. When done, the skin will wrinkle and the tomato will collapse. Tomatoes can be roasted as halves, quarters, or whole, and do best if lightly oiled with olive oil. Roasting garlic cloves alongside gives a tasty flavor combination for many recipes. Tomatoes can also be roasted on a grill or under a broiler as in the recipe for Roasted Tomato Soup.

Spaghetti with Marinated Tomatoes and Goat Cheese

Serves 4

Dishes that mix hot pasta with a cold or room temperature
sauce are a wonderful way to cook in the summer. When the hot pasta contacts the colder ingredients, the enticing aroma released is delicious in itself. In this recipe, the goat cheese melts to form a creamy sauce. Only make this dish when fresh tomatoes are in season and perfectly ripe.

1 1/2 lbs. ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut in half vertically
5 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, very finely minced
1/4 tsp. hot red pepper flakes
3 Tbs. minced capers
Salt to taste
1 lb. dried spaghetti
30 to 40 fresh basil leaves
1/4 lb. goat cheese, cut into olive-sized pieces

Slice tomato halves very thinly. If tomatoes are large, cut the halves in half before slicing so slices aren’t too long.

Transfer tomatoes to a serving bowl and add olive oil, garlic, hot red pepper flakes, capers, and salt to taste. Stir to blend.

Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling water until al dente. Just before pasta is ready, tear basil leaves into small pieces. Stir basil and goat cheese into tomato mixture. Drain pasta, add to bowl containing the tomato mixture and toss. Serve immediately on warm dishes.

—_Pasta Harvest_ by Janet Fletcher

Mushroom-Stuffed Tomatoes

Serves 4

The intensely earthy mushrooms give the best flavor, but any mushroom will do.

2 medium tomatoes (about 1/2 lb.)
Salt
1 cup chopped mushrooms (shiitake, crimini, oyster, porcini)
1 1/2 tsp. lemon juice
1 Tbs. olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1 Tbs. chopped fresh basil OR 1 tsp. dried
1 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley OR 1 tsp. dried
1/4 cup stock, tomato juice, or water
1/2 cup bread crumbs
2 Tbs. freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Cut the tomatoes in half crosswise and gently squeeze out the seeds. Scoop out the pulp with a spoon; chop it and reserve. Sprinkle each half with salt and turn them upside down on paper towels. Let stand 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400º. Sprinkle the mushrooms with lemon juice. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Stir in the mushrooms and sauté 1 minute. Add the shallot and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato pulp and herbs. Cook until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Add the liquid and breadcrumbs and mix well, then remove from heat.

Place the tomato halves in a shallow baking dish. Fill each with some of the mushroom mixture and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

Tomato Pilaf

Serves 6

If you are a fan of cilantro, replace the basil with cilantro.

1 1/2 cups clear chicken stock or vegetable broth
1 lb. tomatoes, peeled and seeded
1 medium onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 Tbs. olive oil
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 1/2 cups long-grain rice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup chopped basil

Heat the stock to a slow simmer while you prepare the rest of the pilaf.

Chop the peeled tomatoes coarsely. Gently sauté the onion and garlic in the oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add the tomatoes and cinnamon and cook over gentle heat for about 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir to mix well. Cook for 5
minutes then add the simmering stock. Stir once to mix, then cover and cook over low heat until the rice is tender and the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir in the herbs and serve.

For additional crunch and interest, stir in a few tablespoons of toasted pinenuts with the basil, top with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese.

Roasted Tomato Soup

Serves 6

1 1/2 tsp. olive oil
3 lbs. ripe tomatoes, stemmed, seeded, and halved (8 to 10 medium tomatoes)
2 red onions, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 cups defatted, rediuced-sodium broth or stock
3 Tbs. chopped fresh basil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the broiler. Spray a baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and place tomatoes on it, cut side down. Broil for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the skins are blistered and blackened. Let cool, then slip off skins.

In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook for 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 2 additional minutes, or until onions are softened.

In a food processor or blender, combine the tomatoes and onions and process until smooth. Return to the saucepan. Add the stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in basil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot or chilled.
—_The Eating Well Recipe Rescue Cookbook_